Friday, October 15, 2010

Outstanding in the Field

Imagine driving to what looks like the middle of nowhere.  You traverse down a narrow highway with only farms on each side of the road.  You wonder if you are lost, what you have gotten yourself into.  Finally, you see human life, a person flagging down cars on where to park.  You meet up with other foodies, people curious or just wanting a different type of dining adventure.  The shuttle arrives and everyone gets on board.  You travel up a steep, dusty, one lane road.  At last, you arrive and what awaits is an unforgettable experience.  This is just one of the many adventures set up by the crew with Outstanding in the Field, a dining experience like no other.
The Bus
Vineyards
I first heard about Outstanding in the Field online and upon further review, it just seemed like a really neat experience.  Gathering at a farm, beach, ranch...just somewhere outdoors, cooking what is grown nearby, guest chefs, communal tables.  The whole idea of eating from what the land will give you is an ancient practice, but has now been dubbed “slow food and sustainable living."  It is something that should be appreciated for what it really is, going back all the way to periods of hunting and gathering...living off what your land will provide for you.
Founder Jim Denevan

First a brief warning: Outstanding in the Field is not a cheap endeavor.  Like many of these prefixed, specialized dinners, they are appealing to true foodies.  What you are truly paying for is the experience, the chance to meet interesting people, tour a farm, find out the ins and outs of what they are growing, what animals they are keeping and enjoy some great food and wine.  My experience was held at Devil’s Gulch Ranch in Nicasio.  The farm is owned by Mark Pasternak, who was in the news almost a year after the dinner when he and his wife helped with relief efforts following the devastating Haiti earthquake.  When we arrived at the farm, we were treated to a glass of wine and a brief introduction by the Outstanding in the Field staff.  Founder Jim Denevan explained what they do, which is travel the country in an old, rickety bus and help to set up and prepare these wonderful meals. 
Pigs on the farm
Touring the property
Grapes up close
Following introductions, Pasternak led us on a tour of his farm and vineyards.  The vast amount of land was amazing.  It truly appeared like it stretched for miles and miles.  Because of the cold weather at the time, the vineyards were fairly stagnant.  Many different varietals were harvested.  We got a look at the farm, as he explained that one of the pigs had just given birth in the morning.  He also had chickens and rabbits on the farm.  The tour was really interesting, especially for someone like me who grew up in a bigger city environment.  It truly gives you a new appreciation for the tireless amount of work that goes into maintaining a farm.
The communal table
Following the tour, we were all brought to the communal table which sat in the middle of the vineyards.  On one end, guest chefs Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski , formerly of Rubicon in San Francisco had the barbecue and grill set up under a tent, preparing plates and plates of food.  Each dish was made from ingredients on the farm or from a nearby farm and was paired with a different wine. 
Cooks at work
The first course was actually served before many of us arrived.  But I heard the cebiche of halibut with avocado was terrific.  It was served with a 2008 Pey-Marin Vineyards Riesling, which was excellent.


The first course after being seated was a rabbit and asparagus salad.  It included shredded Devil’s Gulch rabbit and vineyard asparagus with crushed peanuts, lime, oregano and Ranch Gordo chili powder.  This was paired with a 2006 Stubbs Vineyard Estate Grown Marin County Chardonnay.  The neat thing about the entire meal was the family atmosphere and family-style dining.  It is really meant to meet different people who may have similar interests or completely different interests than you.  This was an excellent dish and a nice mix with the rabbit and vegetables.
Rabbit and asparagus
The second dish was a Devil’s Gulch pork shoulder, served with Mariquita Farms fava beans, Rancho Gordo quinoa stew and Marin Roots bronze fennel.  It was paired with a 2006 Pey-Marin “Trois Filles” Marin-County Pinot Noir.  The meat was perfectly prepared and again, the wine was very well-paired; not too light, not too heavy for the dish it was going with.
Glass of Pinot Noir
The third dish was a grilled Happy Quail pimenton, with cumin marinated Devil’s Gulch lamb, Marin Roots chard, baby turnips and spring onion criolla.  It was served with another pinot noir, this time a 2007 Dutton-Goldfield Devil’s Gulch Pinot Noir.  Another excellent dish. The wine was one of the ranch’s signature wines and was very tasty.
Pimenton and lamb
Dessert as we ended the evening with a Happy Quail rhubarb-custard kuchen with Marin Roots strawberries.  A sweet treat to end the night.
Dessert
One of the cool details of Outstanding in the Field is that fact that all diners are asked to bring their own plates, whether it’s just a regular old plate from home or something with special meaning.  After the meal, the staff washes each and every plate and offers them back to diners or as we did, you can donate them for a future dinner.  Just a really neat touch.


I would say Outstanding in the Field is not for everyone.  For foodies, it is one of those experiences that you can truly enjoy.  There is a huge list of events throughout the year and some of the more popular ones (usually on beaches or with renowned chefs) usually sell out fairly quickly.  It is definitely one of those specialty dinners that left a lasting memory for me.


Outstanding in the Field has planned dinners across the United States throughout the year, including many in Northern California. 

Prices: $180-300 per person. 

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