No, it
is not Acquerello. And it was never meant to be. The more casual
offshoot of the much-heralded San Francisco Italian restaurant, 1760 is making
its own name for itself in the Bay Area dining scene.
The sleek, modern design offers a
comfortable dining experience for guests, with available seating at the bar, a
large communal table, and tables and booths. There is a liveliness to the
restaurant, a feeling of energy that emanates from the kitchen to the bar.
The kitchen is headed up by Chef Adam
Tortosa. Before coming up to the Bay Area, Tortosa spent time at Kiwami
(where he apprenticed under master sushi chef Katsuya Uechi) and worked with
chef Michael Voltaggio at Ink. He also traveled
to Italy ,
before perfecting his menu in the kitchen at Acquerello. “I’ve been
really fortunate because Chef Suzette has given me a lot of freedom with the
menu. Even though my background is mainly in Japanese cuisine, I wanted
the menu to be more about the food I like to eat, the flavors and styles that I
like,” Chef Tortosa said.
There are a pasta dish or two on the menu,
like the bucatini with uni or cavatelli with pork cheek. But Tortosa also
explores flavors from around the globe, while using market-fresh ingredients from
Northern California . “I think that’s one of
the big differences between restaurants in the Bay Area and Los Angeles . In LA, a lot of times,
people go out to be seen,” he said. “But here in San Francisco , you’ll have guests come in and
ask about where certain ingredients come from, what purveyor we’re using, what
farms or producers we’re working with. People really know about the food
they’re consuming in this market.”
While the food has been a standout, the cocktail
and wine lists are also a signature of 1760. Heading the bar is
Christopher Longoria, who came over from Aziza. Longoria approaches
cocktails like a chef, thinking about how different flavor profiles will pair
up with certain spirits. It could be a certain spice or a fruit that is
in season - but there is always an intense and bold flavor behind each
drink. Aside from using a number of ingredients (star anise,
cardamom, cumin, among others), Longoria is using techniques seen in a kitchen as
well, including sous vide cocktails.
Equally
as meticulous is the well-versed wine list from Wine Director Gianpaolo
Paterlini. Having spent time at both
Michael Mina and Acquerello, where he also serves as wine director, Paterlini searches
the globe for unique wines that fit the style of the restaurant. With both wines by the glass and bottle, there
is an approachability to the list that makes it appealing to both guests more
versed in wine and those just looking for a nice glass with dinner.
1760,
from start to finish, provides a first class dining experience, yet in a
comfortable, neighborhood setting. All
part of what makes it one of my top restaurants of 2013. 1760 is located at 1760 Polk Street in San Francisco . Hours are Sunday-Tuesday from 5:00-10:00pm
and Wednesday-Saturday from 5:00-11:00pm.
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