Monday, January 27, 2014

1760 – A Casual Offshoot With A Refined Approach

No, it is not Acquerello.  And it was never meant to be.  The more casual offshoot of the much-heralded San Francisco Italian restaurant, 1760 is making its own name for itself in the Bay Area dining scene.


The sleek, modern design offers a comfortable dining experience for guests, with available seating at the bar, a large communal table, and tables and booths.  There is a liveliness to the restaurant, a feeling of energy that emanates from the kitchen to the bar.  

The kitchen is headed up by Chef Adam Tortosa.  Before coming up to the Bay Area, Tortosa spent time at Kiwami (where he apprenticed under master sushi chef Katsuya Uechi) and worked with chef Michael Voltaggio at Ink.  He also traveled to Italy, before perfecting his menu in the kitchen at Acquerello.  “I’ve been really fortunate because Chef Suzette has given me a lot of freedom with the menu.  Even though my background is mainly in Japanese cuisine, I wanted the menu to be more about the food I like to eat, the flavors and styles that I like,” Chef Tortosa said.  


There are a pasta dish or two on the menu, like the bucatini with uni or cavatelli with pork cheek.  But Tortosa also explores flavors from around the globe, while using market-fresh ingredients from Northern California. “I think that’s one of the big differences between restaurants in the Bay Area and Los Angeles.  In LA, a lot of times, people go out to be seen,” he said.  “But here in San Francisco, you’ll have guests come in and ask about where certain ingredients come from, what purveyor we’re using, what farms or producers we’re working with.  People really know about the food they’re consuming in this market.”


While the food has been a standout, the cocktail and wine lists are also a signature of 1760.  Heading the bar is Christopher Longoria, who came over from Aziza.  Longoria approaches cocktails like a chef, thinking about how different flavor profiles will pair up with certain spirits.  It could be a certain spice or a fruit that is in season - but there is always an intense and bold flavor behind each drink.   Aside from using a number of ingredients (star anise, cardamom, cumin, among others), Longoria is using techniques seen in a kitchen as well, including sous vide cocktails.


Equally as meticulous is the well-versed wine list from Wine Director Gianpaolo Paterlini.  Having spent time at both Michael Mina and Acquerello, where he also serves as wine director, Paterlini searches the globe for unique wines that fit the style of the restaurant.  With both wines by the glass and bottle, there is an approachability to the list that makes it appealing to both guests more versed in wine and those just looking for a nice glass with dinner.


1760, from start to finish, provides a first class dining experience, yet in a comfortable, neighborhood setting.  All part of what makes it one of my top restaurants of 2013.  1760 is located at 1760 Polk Street in San Francisco.  Hours are Sunday-Tuesday from 5:00-10:00pm and Wednesday-Saturday from 5:00-11:00pm.      

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