The Understated Brilliance of Commis in Oakland

Oftentimes, restaurants have a hard time living up to the hype.  Whether it’s an off night in the kitchen, or a few glitches with service, lofty ideas of what a meal will be can quickly be deflated.  But for all my lofty expectations, Commis in Oakland easily hit every mark.

The restaurant, earning Oakland’s only Michelin Star, is located on a busy stretch of Piedmont Avenue.  Commis is an experience from start to finish.  While there is no signage outside, the FOH (front of house) staff warmly greets guests at the door.  There are a few tables near the front of the restaurant, several more at the back, and also, five coveted seats at the counter.  The look is more casual than you might see at other fine dining establishments – but it truly fits Chef James Syhabout to a T.

Syhabout himself is fairly quiet and reserved, but don’t let that fool you.  He is a supremely talented chef and the kitchen at Commis is doing wonderful things.  A tasting menu is offered each evening, with a bounty of fresh ingredients.  The dishes are typically on the smaller size, but there is a thoughtfulness to the composition of each item.  The kitchen is small, but very organized, with tasks spelled out well in advance.  There are no sudden movements, no chaos, everything is orchestrated like a well-oiled machine, in perfect harmony.

The food is clever and sophisticated.  By the end of the meal, there is a real sense of being satisfied, yet not overly stuffed.  Syhabout and his staff are not about being pigeonholed into cooking a specific type of way; they are about creativity, with technique ruling the day.  Each ingredient has its place on the plate.  While the flavors don’t always jump off the plate, no items are too salty or overly seasoned.  And despite all the precision and technique, the meal is not an arduous three-hour meal; it is fun and exciting.

For all these reasons and many more, my dinner at Commis was my best meal of 2013.  The best thing I can say about Commis - when I think back to my meal, it leaves a huge smile on my face.

Commis is located at 3859 Piedmont Avenue in Oakland, CA.  The restaurant is open Wednesday -Saturday from 5:30pm-close and on Sunday from 5:00pm-close.  The nightly tasting menu is $85 for eight courses, $45 for additional beverage pairing.  The chef’s counter is highly, highly suggested.