Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Ino Sushi

The cross culture between Japanese chefs and the American restaurant scene has become fully integrated.  In many cases, while Japanese chefs still have hard fast beliefs on proper etiquette, traditions and instilling some of their ideals, most have not taken into upon themselves to force the issue.  They have been more benevolent and allowed many American ideals and beliefs about sushi and Japanese food to overtake their restaurants.  It has become a vast wasteland of Dragon Rolls, sushi with too much mayo or sauce and sake bombs from 20-something crowds.  But a few chefs have ruled with an iron fist and brought everything they learned straight from Japan to their restaurants.  And one of the best examples in San Francisco is at Ino Sushi.

Ino-san rules over the sushi bar at Ino Sushi.  The menu is wide-ranging, although the main drawing card is the sashimi and sushi.  The design is very customary of restaurants in Japan, with a drawn curtain awaiting you at the door, a few small tables and a long, wooden sushi bar.  Overall, the restaurant is tiny, seating maybe 20 people total.  Everything about the restaurant reminds me of what Japan would be like.  You sit down, are given your utensils and a hot towel to wipe your hands and face and prepare yourself for a wonderful meal served by Ino-san.
Ino-san
I have been a few times and I am not sure if Ino-san has mellowed a little.  But he doesn’t seem to be as much of a “sushi bully.”  Here is a great article on some sushi chefs and their “crazy” ways.  But there are a few rules to understand before dining at the restaurant.  Wait to order, he will eventually make his way to you.  Do not fill your entire dish with shoyu (soy sauce), just lightly dip the sushi (fish-side, not rice) it is meant as an insult if you use too much.  Do not ask for wasabi, he uses plenty in his sushi.  And don’t be shocked when he delivers your gari (ginger) and nigiri directly on the wood in front of your seat; it is clean and how many restaurants in Japan serve their sushi.  Also, don’t get offended if he yells; he is just very particular in how his sushi should be consumed.  
Ankimo Nigiri
Omakase is always a good choice in restaurants that you trust.  That allows the chef to create a menu of his best items, freshest fish and some off the menu delicacies.  It is a good way to go at Ino for a great variety of his freshest fish.  I actually enjoy picking and choosing several nigiri items off the menu, some of which I rarely see at other restaurants.  Kazunoko (herring roe) is a Japanese delicacy that I am used to from family meals around New Year’s.  The Ankimo (monkfish liver) is some of the best I have tasted.  The fish is fresh and there is a very wide variety of everything from Maguro (tuna) and Hamachi (yellowtail) to Ika Geso (squid legs) and Tako (octopus).  There is also a number of sashimi dishes, salads and soups, all of which are very authentic.  There is also a small but thorough list of room temperature and warm sakes, beers and teas.  
Sushi bar
Now for a few complaints.  While I am a fan of sticking to and teaching tradition and culture at a dining establishment, I am not sure if a condescending attitude is the right way to go about things.  I am also a little surprised at how much wasabi Ino-san uses for his sushi.  I have always loved just the pure and unadulterated form and quality of raw fish, whether it is served as nigiri or sashimi.  The taste and texture really defines each piece and exemplifies the quality of the fish.  While I don’t mind adding wasabi, it just takes a little away for me. 
Despite some shortcomings, Ino Sushi is really a delightful place that can at times exemplify the best that Japanese restaurants have to offer.  The quality of the fish and dedication of Ino-san to serving the highest quality Japanese food possible is a testament to his hard work and willingness to sacrifice for something he believes in.  I have a lot of respect for that and enjoy his restaurant every time I visit.
Ino Sushi is located in the Kinoyunika Building in Japantown (the actual address is 22 Peace Plaza, Suite 510).  It is open Tuesday-Sunday from 5:30-10:00.
Phone Number: (415) 922-3121

Prices: Sushi: $6-MP (Market price)
        Sashimi: $10-35



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