How a Trip to Japan Helped Inspire ICHI Sushi + Ni Bar

A personal disclosure first: I am friends with Tim and Erin Archuleta, owners of ICHI Sushi and the new ICHI Sushi + Ni Bar, which opens Tuesday night.  So if this sounds like I’m kissing their butt, maybe so.  But I truly respect both of them, as they constantly prove to me to be two of the nicest people in the business.

The new ICHI Sushi + Ni Bar, located a block or so away from the original ICHI on Mission Street, is almost four times the size, and will have plenty of new features.  In the front will be the sushi bar, with table seating.  The sushi menu as always will be seasonal, with a collection of specials, along with an assortment of nigiri and rolls.  As usual, the omakase will also be an option, for those looking to get the best of what the restaurant has to offer.  Archuleta has long held to the belief of serving sushi in a traditional manner, and that will remain the case at the new ICHI.  And for sushi newbies, there is also a very informative and cool mural on the front wall, explaining the proper way to enjoy your dinner.  There is room for about 30, with separate omakase-only seating available by reservation overlooking the kitchen.

Heading deeper into the space is the Ni Bar, a welcome addition for fans of the old ICHI space.  As many guests grew accustomed to, there was little room for those waiting for a table or to sit at the sushi bar in the old space.  Now, it’s all inclusive, with the back portion of the restaurant featuring a small menu of izakaya-type dishes and a bar, featuring sake, shochu, beer and wine.  Guests can stop in for a quick bite, grab a drink, or wait for a spot in the sushi portion of ICHI.  The additional space also means Archuleta has a full kitchen at his disposal, something that was not the case at the old space.  The Ni Bar menu features a few cold items (oysters, sashimi, sunomono), and some cooked dishes as well.  In talking with Chef Archuleta over the last few months, much of the inspiration for the Ni Bar menu came to him back in late September, on a two-week trip to Japan, his first visit to the country.  The Beef Tripe Stew was something served at almost every izakaya spot in Japan, the Yakitori brings him back to one of his favorite experiences in Japan’s famed “Piss Alley,” with cramped spaces filled with businessmen, drinking “beeru”(the Japanese word for beer), a cauldron of boiling broth, with each skewer dipped in before heading to the grill.  “Who knows how long that broth has been simmering, there could be little remnants from ten years or more, that have been sitting in the bottom of that huge pot,” Archuleta said.  This was one of many stories and pictures (if you see Tim, ask him about the taxi ride with his yakitori grill, his obsession with Hoppy and frozen beer, among other things) from his incredible trip that served as part of the inspiration behind the new ICHI, without losing the fun, vibrant and casual nature of the old space.

For longtime fans of ICHI, this is not a makeover – it is just an expansion of all the things the restaurant is known for.  The restaurant and space epitomize what Tim and Erin are all about, from customer service, to food and drinks, to a warm and welcoming environment.  Yes, you’ll still hear an awesome playlist (probably hip hop) on the sound system, you’ll be greeted by friendly sushi chefs and staff, you’ll have an terrific sushi experience, and the best part - you’ll likely have a lot of fun.  ICHI Sushi + Ni Bar is located at 3282 Mission Street (at 29th) in San Francisco.  Hours are Monday-Thursday from 5:30-10:00 pm, and Friday-Saturday from 5:30-11:00 pm.  

Shorty Goldstein’s - A Much-Needed Addition To The Financial District

San Francisco’s Financial District can be a boon or bust when looking for a spot to eat during lunchtime.  Fighting the urge to grab a sandwich, soup or salad from the dearth of quick service chains, a newcomer in 2013 brought a welcome option, to eat in or grab something to go.

Shorty Goldstein’s is the brainchild of Chef Michael Siegel, a project he’s been looking forward to for years.  “This is the food I grew up with,” he told me shortly after opening.  The Jewish deli is a throwback, as Siegel and his team smoke and cure all the meats served in house, from the pastrami to the corned beef and the smoked turkey.  The menu brings Siegel “back to his roots,” with items from his childhood growing up, such as chopped liver, toasted rye and pickles, a pot roasted brisket, latkes served with creme fraiche and apple sauce and Shorty’s potato knish.

“My great grandmother, Shorty, would make knish only on special occasions. So it has a special place in my heart,” Chef Siegel said.  His family history is seen throughout the restaurant, not just in the menu, but also in the design of the space.  There is a wall set up near the kitchen with a family tree, while pictures of his family, many black-and-white, adorn the other walls.  When talking to Chef Siegel, you get a sense that he understands his family, his culinary history, and although the recipes may not be exactly the same, he has given them a fresh update, while still keeping many of the essentials of each dish. 

Chef Siegel is a regular at local farmer’s markets, helping round out his menu with the freshest produce that comes in each week.  There is a daily special at Shorty Goldstein’s and several offerings change with the season.  There is a true comfy, down-home goodness to the food, without losing any quality or integrity.  It is truly a great alternative for the soup, sandwich and salad crowd, who want their lunch done right.

One thing to be appreciated at Shorty Goldstein’s - going in, Siegel knew what his target audience was going to be and he hasn’t strayed from that vision.  To feed business people in the Financial District in a timely fashion, but also not skimping on the facets that make great restaurants work - the food, service and providing an enjoyable experience.  All of which makes Shorty Goldstein’s one of my best restaurants of 2013.  Shorty Goldstein’s is located at 126 Sutter Street in San Francisco and is open Monday-Friday from 8:00am - 4:30pm. 

Joe’s Cable Car Restaurant Set To Close In March

Sadly, another San Francisco institution is going by the wayside as Joe’s Cable Car Restaurant owner Joe Obegi said he is closing up shop in the middle of March.

As reported by KCBS radio, the restaurant, which opened in 1965 on Mission Street near Silver Avenue, will have its last day of service on March 16.  Obegi said the restaurant started as a tiny, 160 sq. ft. building, constructed to look like a San Francisco Cable Car.  The original intent was to have Joe’s Cable Car serve as a drive-in diner, with walk-up window service.

Eventually, Obegi decided to expand, adding booth and table seating.  The restaurant, grew in popularity, even being featured on Guy Fieri’s Food Network show, “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.”  But Obegi said he’s closing because he just didn’t have the heart to sell the restaurant and endanger the quality of what it was best known for – its burgers.

Photo Credit: Joe's Cable Car Facebook page

Joe’s Cable Car has long been regarded, by customers and critics alike, as having “one of the best burgers in town.”  Obegi ground his own fresh chuck daily, with the steaks made of 100% U.S.D.A, government inspected, choice beef chuck.  He said it gave him great pleasure to have “smiling customers who enjoyed good food.”      

According to the restaurant’s website, it remains “one of the last privately owned and operated restaurants in the city.”  It’s unfortunate that more of these small businesses just can’t compete in today’s economy.  Joe’s Cable Car is located at 4320 Mission Street in San Francisco.

Traveling Across The Globe At Juhu Beach Club

When defining Oakland’s restaurant scene in 2013, the one word that kept popping into my mind is soul - the soulfulness of dishes, the soulful vibe of a restaurant, chefs who were cooking from their heart and soul.  Never was that more evident than at the vibrant and energetic Juhu Beach Club in the Temescal District.

Chef Preeti Mistry has found the perfect home for her style of cooking.  The talented chef, who many may be familiar with from her stint on “Top Chef,” takes guests on a trip with her to Mumbai, but in a playful manner.  You get a sense of the flavors that Chef Mistry grew up with in India, and the food she enjoyed eating, by what she offers at Juhu Beach Club.  From the signature pavs (think of them as an Indian version of a slider), to the whole chicken leg, an assortment of salads and other smaller plates, each dish is filled with flavors taking guests to another part of the world.  Many dishes have an extra kick of spice, but even the more mild ones provide a fresh and unique look into modern Indian cuisine, through the vision of Chef Mistry.

While dishes at Juhu Beach Club may seem simple, they are truly filled with so many different textures, and flavor profiles that are distinct and truly unique.  There is also a California appeal, as Mistry uses sustainable produce, and local and organic ingredients whenever possible.  You may not see dishes like butter chicken or tikka masala, but that is part of what adds to the appeal of the restaurant.  There is a sense of what’s familiar, but also, something new and adventurous that touches new taste buds.  

Named after Chef Mistry’s favorite city beach in Mumbai, the decor and ambience at Juhu Beach Club is fun and relaxed, a place for solo dining at the counter, or in a larger group, with grandparents and kids alike.  While there is no sand or beaches, the bright colors and music playing from the speakers brings you to a beach-like setting, where you can kick back, relax and let the flavors from Chef Mistry’s small kitchen take you to a place far away.

It’s that vibe and the wonderful food and friendly service that bring me back to Juhu Beach Club, one of my best new restaurants of 2013.  Juhu Beach Club is located at 5179 Telegraph Avenue in Oakland.  Hours are Friday and Saturday for lunch from 11:30am – 2:30pm and Tuesday-Saturday for dinner from 5:30-9:30pm.

1760 – A Casual Offshoot With A Refined Approach

No, it is not Acquerello.  And it was never meant to be.  The more casual offshoot of the much-heralded San Francisco Italian restaurant, 1760 is making its own name for itself in the Bay Area dining scene.

The sleek, modern design offers a comfortable dining experience for guests, with available seating at the bar, a large communal table, and tables and booths.  There is a liveliness to the restaurant, a feeling of energy that emanates from the kitchen to the bar.  

The kitchen is headed up by Chef Adam Tortosa.  Before coming up to the Bay Area, Tortosa spent time at Kiwami (where he apprenticed under master sushi chef Katsuya Uechi) and worked with chef Michael Voltaggio at Ink.  He also traveled to Italy, before perfecting his menu in the kitchen at Acquerello.  “I’ve been really fortunate because Chef Suzette has given me a lot of freedom with the menu.  Even though my background is mainly in Japanese cuisine, I wanted the menu to be more about the food I like to eat, the flavors and styles that I like,” Chef Tortosa said.  

There are a pasta dish or two on the menu, like the bucatini with uni or cavatelli with pork cheek.  But Tortosa also explores flavors from around the globe, while using market-fresh ingredients from Northern California. “I think that’s one of the big differences between restaurants in the Bay Area and Los Angeles.  In LA, a lot of times, people go out to be seen,” he said.  “But here in San Francisco, you’ll have guests come in and ask about where certain ingredients come from, what purveyor we’re using, what farms or producers we’re working with.  People really know about the food they’re consuming in this market.”

While the food has been a standout, the cocktail and wine lists are also a signature of 1760.  Heading the bar is Christopher Longoria, who came over from Aziza.  Longoria approaches cocktails like a chef, thinking about how different flavor profiles will pair up with certain spirits.  It could be a certain spice or a fruit that is in season - but there is always an intense and bold flavor behind each drink.   Aside from using a number of ingredients (star anise, cardamom, cumin, among others), Longoria is using techniques seen in a kitchen as well, including sous vide cocktails.

Equally as meticulous is the well-versed wine list from Wine Director Gianpaolo Paterlini.  Having spent time at both Michael Mina and Acquerello, where he also serves as wine director, Paterlini searches the globe for unique wines that fit the style of the restaurant.  With both wines by the glass and bottle, there is an approachability to the list that makes it appealing to both guests more versed in wine and those just looking for a nice glass with dinner.

1760, from start to finish, provides a first class dining experience, yet in a comfortable, neighborhood setting.  All part of what makes it one of my top restaurants of 2013.  1760 is located at 1760 Polk Street in San Francisco.  Hours are Sunday-Tuesday from 5:00-10:00pm and Wednesday-Saturday from 5:00-11:00pm.      

Miss Ollie’s – Chef Sarah Kirnon Cooks From the Heart

Comfort.  Home.  Soul.  Three words that describe every single visit to Miss Ollie’s in Oakland, an amazing restaurant with an everlasting appeal.

Chef Sarah Kirnon leads guests on a culinary tour of her life, her upbringing, and HER food.  The restaurant, located in Old Oakland, may look like a casual neighborhood spot when passing by.  But stepping into the doors, it is a burst of energy, warmth and dishes with never-ending flavors. 

Although she was born in Britain, Kirnon spent much of her youth in Barbados.  Raised by her grandmother, a cook at a plantation, Kirnon grew accustomed to the ways of a kitchen at an early age.  Those traits, those flavors, those dishes all were part of the inspiration for Miss Ollie’s

An ode to her grandmother, in both the name of the restaurant and the food being served, Miss Ollie’s offers hearty, down-home dishes in a more casual setting and style than her previous stop at Hibiscus in Uptown Oakland.  Open for both lunch and dinner, and now with a liquor license to boot, the menu is inspired by food from the Caribbean, but with a California sensibility to it (i.e. market-driven ingredients, seasonal changes).  Kirnon offers a daily special, from Fried Chicken to Oxtail and Fish Friday; other staples include her Salt Fish & Ackee, Phoularie, Plantains and Creole Doughnuts.  For the quality of the ingredients and the portion sizes, prices are a steal and service is friendly at every turn.  

Kirnon’s food, while reflecting her childhood and grandmother’s influence, has a real sense of modern cooking.  There are such an assortment of textures on each plate, along with flavors that are both bold and more understated.  And yet, while there is a sense of “technical cooking,” the food is also very approachable and comforting.  Whenever I stop in to Miss Ollie’s, I truly feel like I am stepping into the kitchen of Kirnon, getting a glimpse at how certain dishes, certain flavor profiles, spices shaped her upbringing and life as a chef.  

Miss Ollie’s truly acts as a pulse for Oakland.  The city gets a horribly bad rap in the news media, both locally and nationally, as being a violent, “dangerous” place to go out.  But it’s really quite the opposite.  Oakland is a diverse city of all ages and races; and that’s exactly what you can see at Miss Ollie’s.  People of all colors, backgrounds and ages enjoying a wonderful meal, whether dining solo or with a large group.  It is a place that welcomes all comers.

What put Miss Ollie’s over the top and on my list of best new restaurants in 2013?  I have never had a bad meal, bad service and have always left 100 percent satisfied.  And many times, that’s all you need to make a truly great restaurant.  Miss Ollie’s is located at 901 Washington Street in Oakland.  The restaurant is open for lunch Tuesday-Saturday from 11:30am-2:30pm and for dinner Tuesday-Thursday from 5:30-9:30, and Friday & Saturday from 5:30-10:30.

Ramen Shop - The Best Noodles in the Bay Area

For those who know me well, they know I have a slight obsession with ramen. Okay, slight is probably the wrong word.  I mean, I did eat ramen four times on a six day trip to New York last summer. But to me, it is the perfect Japanese comfort food.  This obsession has led me back, again-and-again, to the restaurant I feel is serving up the best bowl of ramen in the Bay Area - Ramen Shop in Oakland.

The idea sprouted up from three alums of Chez Panisse, Rayneil De Guzman, Jerry Jaksich and Sam White.  “We had made separate trips to Japan.  And it was just such an eye-opening experience,” De Guzman said.  “Plus, we really love noodles!”  The three friends had long wondered why there weren’t more great ramen places in the Bay Area.  And that’s where Ramen Shop now comes in.

The restaurant opened on College Avenue in Oakland’s Rockridge neighborhood with quite a bit of fanfare.  Long lines greeted guests from the start and it really hasn’t slowed down, more than a year later.  “It’s been surprising how many people have come in and how busy we have been.  But I think it really goes to show that people in the Bay Area wanted this type of ramen,” De Guzman said.

The restaurant itself seats about 40-50 people, with both tables and a long bar in front of the open kitchen.  The bar area at the front of the space also has plentiful seating for those looking to grab a cocktail, beer or glass of wine, or if you’re waiting for a seat.  De Guzman said with the long waiting list, at times, they are still trying to figure out the best way to accommodate everyone in a timely manner.  But the wait is normally a fairly quick one.

On to the menu.  The ramen varies from day-to-day, with different broths, from shio (salt-based), miso, shoyu (soy sauce) – the guys have even been doing a tsukemen on Monday nights, where the noodles and broth are served in separate bowls, and the noodles are dipped into the dipping sauce.  The broth is the most consistent I have tasted in the Bay Area.  Noodles are made in-house, another rarity for local ramen shops.  “Plenty of places get their ramen noodles from a shop down in San Jose and they are perfectly fine,” said De Guzman.  “But there is just something missing with them.”  De Guzman, Jaksich and White have even contemplated working with different types of noodles for different broths.  The entire package, from noodles to broth to fresh ingredients added on equals perfect comfort all in one bowl.

The restaurant doesn’t only feature ramen though.  There are an assortment of other smaller dishes that fill out the menu, for those that might not be feeling the ramen craving. The cocktails have evolved under the leadership of Chris Lane.  There is a great beer list as well. 

What led me to include Ramen Shop on my list of best new restaurants in 2013?  Along with the great ramen, the entire team seems to have fun and there is a togetherness in the space.  Service is terrific and the kitchen team looks like it acts as one, perfectly in stride.  While De Guzman, Jaksich and White have all made trips to Japan, they also raised money to have some of their staff make the trip this past year – and hope to have everyone, from servers to the kitchen, experience it in the future.  Ramen Shop is located at 5812 College Avenue in Oakland and is open for dinner Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 5:00-10:30pm, Friday from 5:00-Midnight, Saturday from 4:00-Midnight and Sunday 4:00-10:30pm.